How to Safely Transplant Perennials and Flowers

How to Safely Transplant Perennials and Flowers : When is the ideal time to move perennial plants? virtually at any time of year! Find out the best ways to replant flowers.

 

How to Safely Transplant Perennials and Flowers

 

Replanting Flowers: The Basics

Why not plant those daffodils beside the door? Transplantation cannot wait until October!” The best ideas don’t always arrive when we want them. Your summer garden’s coppery orange daylilies are stunning, but the blue veronicas are too far away. They’d look great with daylilies. Everyone’s done it. No matter how long we spend deciding where to plant, we inevitably make mistakes. Before the plants blossom, we think we have it perfect. After that, we just think about transplanting flowers.

 

It continues all season as plants bloom and show us our mistakes. We sometimes miss by inches or feet. Avoid regret. Next time you wonder, Why didn’t I plant that here? Dig in and repair it immediately. Designing with a shovel. Put those vibrant Asiatic lilies behind the cool blue campanulas or pair the deep crimson rose with the pure white Shasta daisies.

 

 

When Is the Best Time to Transplant Perennials?

You might wait until fall or early spring to transplant lost perennials and bulbs. But why delay? Any perennial with fibrous roots and most bulbs can be moved in bud or bloom.

 

If possible, transplant on a cloudy day to prevent leaf drying. If you can’t wait for weather, transplant late afternoon. This lets the plant settle down without being harassed by sun.

 

Naturally, shovel design need water, which you already have. No matter how carefully you dig, you’ll cut roots, which carry plant water. Until they settle in, the plant won’t get enough water to avoid wilting. The answer? Watering throughout.

 

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How to Transplant Perennials

Give your transplanted plant a healthy drink to hydrate it before transplanting. Choose the plant’s location. Start by digging a 10-inch-wide, shovel-deep hole. You can change it later.

Fill the hole with water and soak. Fill and drain again. Third time if water gone within 20 minutes. Not muddy, but damp soil. This extra moisture prevents the soil from wicking water from your transplant.

 

Moving operations can commence now. Dig wider and deeper than necessary around the plant or bulb clump. At least 10 inches deep for bulbs. Other perennials may simply need 6–8 inches. Drain spades are ideal because of their longer, narrower blades.

 

Look at the root-ball size when lifted. Reposition the plant gently. Has your new hole enough room for the roots and depth for the plant to sit at its old height? If so, good! If not, refill the bottom with soil.

Transporting plants requires “handle with care”. Be careful not to break stems or buds and preserve the soil around those roots. If your plant is small, carry it to the new hole on the shovel blade with one hand. Use wheelbarrows for big plants. Insert the root-ball into the new hole and turn the plant to face its best side. Firm the earth in the hole.

 

 

Water Well After Replanting Flowers

Another watering! Water the hole again without waiting for it to drain. Finish filling the hole with soil and pat it down gently to avoid squished oxygen, as roots need air as much as water. Provide temporary shade during the first two days to prevent wilting. A lawn chair over the plant is an easy approach. Compare the top 10 garden hoses.

 

For the first week, consider your transplant a bouquet of cut flowers. It needs extra water until the new root hairs grow, but too much could drown it. If puddles last more than a few minutes, stop hosing.

 

Even when transplanted at peak bloom, plants settle very fast. In two to three days, your plant will seem like it’s been there forever—in the proper position.

 

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